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Restaurant Review: Nectar in Zutphen

Nectar, a restaurant in Zutphen, receives a 7+ rating for its surprise menus and individual dishes, but is criticized for its overly complex dish descriptions and somewhat overcrowded plates. The restaurant offers a surprise menu ranging from four to eight courses, alongside individual dishes, with a focus on emphasizing the dining-out experience.

The reviewer noted the restaurant’s interior, which includes a large space with a kitchen and bar in the back, blue upholstered benches, dried and artificial flowers, and honeycomb details. They also enjoyed a non-alcoholic aperitif, the sparkling tea from the Copenhagen Sparkling Tea Company.

While the amuse-bouche, consisting of raw cod with asparagus and mussel sauce for the omnivore and a mushroom bitterballen for the vegetarian, were successful, the service was mixed. The hostess-sommelier was praised, but the less experienced staff made errors in wine descriptions.

The starters included yellowtail kingfish for the omnivore, which was seared instead of raw, and various preparations of zucchini for the vegetarian. The reviewer found the yellowtail tasty but noted the color change from searing and the zucchini dish overly sweet.

The second course featured a warm salad with peas, asparagus, and morels for the vegetarian, while the meat eater received redfish. The vegetarian dish was described as slightly overcrowded, while the redfish dish felt disjointed.

The third course consisted of eggplant with macadamia and miso paste for both, with the vegetarian option facing potential contamination due to the presence of bonito flakes in the furikake. The eggplant was velvety, but the nut paste was overly salty.

The vegetarian main course of roasted celeriac, turnip greens, and mushrooms was well-received, particularly due to the vinaigrette. The meat eater received lamb with artichoke, carrot, and “Arabic flavors,” which were deemed a mess due to poorly dosed spices and soggy couscous.

Dessert options included a cheese-based dish and a lime curd with rhubarb and raspberry ice cream. The cheese dessert was described as a strange combination, while the lime curd was better, although the soufflé tasted like lemonade syrup. A madeleine with amaretto cream accompanied the coffee.

In conclusion, the reviewer noted that while the cooking at Nectar is generally good, the dishes could benefit from more focus to better highlight the spring vegetables.